Rosa Cha Spring 2008 Collection

Brazilian designer Amir Salma's vision for swimwear label Rosa Chá took us to many destinations and through several design eras filtered through the eyes of Tropicalia, the designer's native art movement. He first introduced us to swimwear inspired by Dada. The models strutted out wearing acrylic plates, metal pieces and beads interwoven in the fabric. We thought we had landed into a Barbarella movie, but wasn't having nearly as much fun as Jane Fonda. Then came a trippy walk through "Concrete poetry," where patchwork patterns in light diaphanous dresses, bikinis with jackets, capes and coupled skirts in pink and salmon, reminiscent of Mondrian paintings, made us wonder what was the message, exactly. Will Rosa Chá move from swimwear to clothing? We weren't sure. Next up, came a walk through a surreal life that juxtaposed standard fabrics with unusual objects. The goal was to provide contrast—between structured and unstructured shapes, Lycra and metals, computer chips and knitwear. The result, however, was not a triptych worthy of embracing as a whole and individually, but singular thoughts much more suited to be expressed as either one or the other. —Marcia Cole